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On small animal like rabbits, muskrats, and squirrels without a doubt the #110 Conibear is the best trap to own. When you get into larger animals snares can be just as effective and sometimes better then traps.

 

Over the winter I was making a new Snaring DVD (Buckshot's Advanced Snaring DVD), the wind chill at times was -50 below and the snares kept working, taking beautiful thick prime January coyotes. With the snow and wind it would have been very hard to keep traps working. This example shows snares are more effective. Snares are the way to go in the winter.

 

 

 

 

After years  talking with several people about homemade wire snares I decided to try 22 gauge galvanized wire and 24 gauge copper wire.  Again, people have told me that the 22 gauge galvanized wire was the wire to have for snares. So maybe I am wrong I thought and really gave them an honest try. I placed 4 snares out. 2 steel and 2 copper. Using my 4 snares per 1 animal average.

 

Finding good trails for the little cottontail rabbits I was confident these homemade snares would work. The next morning I was out checking them and 2 of the 4 snares had made catches but no rabbits. Did coyotes steal them? Nope, no tracks in the snow! What did I find when I checked them? Both snares failed! I found a torn up area with broken wire and no rabbit. Every time I try the single strand wire I find it broken or limited success (on squirrels).

 

 

 

 

So why would anyone bet their life on these snares? I have asked this question many times. If homemade wire snares work so good why do trappers use real self locking snares? Really, why pay for snares if you can make up tons using single strand wire snares? Because they are not reliable. When you are trapping for food you want every single advantage you can get. Trapping and snaring is a percentage game. You place snares or traps out in numbers planning on making catches. When you first start until you learn to read the trails and animal sign you will have limited success. The better you get, the more you catch. But what is the most important thing to remember? Your scent? Nope. Your location? Good choice but nope. How you place your snare? Another good choice but nope? Ok, here it is? Good equipment equals success? Granted good equipment is the first step then you still have a learning curve but as you become successful you will bring more food home because you have good equipment that will hold the intended animal and not break.

 

I then used Real 1/16 Small Game Snares made out of galvanized aircraft cable, that is self locking.

 

 

 

 

 I know big surprise, but guess what? No more broken wire and every single rabbit that was caught in the snares, was waiting for me when I came back.

 

 The first night with real snares I had another first. I caught a skunk going into a rabbit den. I knew skunks were eggs eaters. There has been many a duck study done proving skunks kill or run off the hen duck and eat the eggs. So, was the skunk going in to try and kill the rabbits or looking for a den already build? Next day skunk number 2 was waiting. It appears the skunk killed all the rabbits or scared them out of the area. Glad to be rid of them. Nothing worse on the homestead then skunks spraying the dog and eating all the eggs from the chickens.

 

 

 

 

Lesson learned. Why play at it? Use Real Snares for real results. The other problem was after using the single strand 22 gauge snare there were 2 rabbits that would not enter a good snare. Even rabbits can learn to shy away from snares. Why were they shying away? Well, the big obvious answer is they were caught in the single strand 22 gauge galvanized wire and broke free. Now they knew to stay away from them. I have said this before, there are not smart animals out there. They are educated because of mistakes. Those 2 rabbits had escaped the wire snares and now would stop dead in the trail on any snare they saw and detour around it. 

 

Bruce Buckshot

 

 

 

       

 

                                       

 

       

 

 

 

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